A chaotic living room…
Problem: With toys piled behind the sofa and books and knickknacks taking up space on other surfaces, the living room felt overcrowded.

…feels larger once the toys are put away
Solution: Gould decluttered, storing 10 boxes of toys and leaving just a vase of flowers and a couple of small sculptures on the coffee table and mantel. Plum-colored chairs from another room replaced the older, worn-out flowered armchairs.

This house sold the week after Gould finished her staging – much to the owners’ relief, since they’d already bought another home.

Listed: $688,000
Sold: $667,000 (97% of list)
Staging costs: $5,000

– From Debra Gould, founder of Staging Diva, via CNNMoney.com

A newly discovered blog… Odd finds in Real Estate Listings at “Lovely Listing”! This is just too much fun!

http://lovelylisting.com/

http://lovelylisting.com/

Helpful video from ExpertRealEstateTips on Youtube, “Should You Use a Credit Monitoring Service?”:

A disorganized corner nook…
Problem: Buyers could see this area of the house from the entryway. A haphazard placement of tall plants, toys, and a huge TV made it feel awkward and cluttered.

...is recast as a reading spot

Solution: The plants were given to a friend and the electronics and toys stored. Gould replaced them with a comfy reading chair and lamp to give this sunny spot a cozy focal point.

This house languished on the market for three months before it was staged. It was the only two-bedroom home that sold in the area that season.

Listed: $329,000
Sold: $327,000 (99% of list)
Staging costs: $2,500

– From Debra Gould, founder of Staging Diva, via CNNMoney.com

Real Estate Blog: http://maryboe.com/news-tips/
Bringing you the very best real estate advice & tips from around the internet!

When buying a brand new builder house, potential buyers often think they can dispense with the need for a house inspector. If it’s new, it must be in good shape, right?

Not always true.

New homes can be just as problematic as old ones. In fact, because they haven’t been tested by years of use and abuse, they can be filled with problems, especially if the builder used any shoddy practices. Hiring a qualified house inspector before you buy is a major hedge against very expensive surprises.

Then again, a house inspector can be very costly—from several hundred to a thousand dollars or more. If you ultimately end up buying the house, this is money well spent. On the other hand, if the house has serious drawbacks, you’re better off saving the cost of the inspector and moving on to a better prospect.

Here are ten clues for determining a house’s overall quality before you commit to the cost of hiring a house inspector:

1. The structure. From a reasonably distant vantage point, look at the house. Do the walls appear to be plumb and flat? From inside, are any walls bowed or not square at corners? When you jump in the middle of the living room floor, does it flex or feel solid?

2. Water control. Does the ground slope away from the base of the house? Will gutters, downspouts and drainage pipes carry excess water away from the house…or into the basement? Is there any evidence of water damage?

3. The roof. Is the roof new and in good shape? Does it look neat and properly applied?

4. Details. Do you see signs of quality workmanship in the finish details such as moldings, tile work, hardware and paint?

5. Kitchen & bath fixtures. Are sinks, toilets and tubs quality fixtures? Do they work properly? Is the water pressure good when you turn on the faucets and flush the toilet?

6. Electrical system. Are the number and locations of receptacles adequate to the needs of the house? Is the main circuit breaker marked at least “100 amps”?

7. Water heater, plumbing. Is the water heater gas or electric (gas is much more efficient)? Water supply pipes from the water heater to fixtures should be copper.

8. Heating. Where is the furnace or heater located and what type is it? Are any rooms not heated? Do registers look adequate for heating the spaces? Is the house air-conditioned?

9. Insulation. Look in the attic for insulation; R-19 (6 inches of fiberglass, for example) is a minimum in moderate climates; up to R-38 (12 inches of fiberglass) is required in cold climates. Remove a receptacle cover on perimeter wall to check for wall insulation.

10. Fireplaces. Do they have screens or glass doors (doors are more efficient). What about dampers and log lighters? Is there a combustion vent that draws air from outside and a spark arrestor at the top of the chimney?

– by Don Vandervort, HomeTips.com

For more about home buying, including how to find a qualified home inspector, visit HomeTips.com.

Try these quick tips for organizing and maintaining a clutter-free home from basement to attic…

LIVING ROOM
Put the family back into your family room with our simple tips for organizing your main gathering space.

4. Create a Play Zone

If toys are taking over your family room, it’s time to put them in timeout. Unused corners of a family room transform into great play areas because the walls serve to block encroaching clutter. Corners are also good areas to put a small bookcase or children’s table. Add rolling bins for toy storage so your child doesn’t have to feel confined, but is encouraged to pick up after he or she is done playing.

5. Coffee Table Functionality

If you have a coffee table (or forgot you had one due to the clutter) it’s time to reassess its organizational capacity. Coffee tables that look great but don’t have any storage for magazines, remote controls or even drink coasters, are probably making life more difficult. If you don’t have the budget for a new one, consider adding low storage cubes, rolling baskets or bins to stick under the table.

8. Take Advantage of Space Behind the Sofa

Organize extra blankets, pillows, candles in an accessible place — behind the sofa. It’s a great place to put a trunk, cabinet or low bookcase. Plus, it gives you another surface to put a lamp or show off some treasured objects.

9. Sort Your Movie Collection

Multimedia like DVDs, videotapes and CDs are staples of the family room. Take 30 minutes to begin sorting your entire collection, making two piles: one for keeping and one for selling back or donating. If you no longer listen to the music or haven’t seen the movie in ages (and don’t plan on seeing it again), it’s time to let go. There are plenty of options for storing your sorted collection: DVD towers, in a bookcase, ottoman or the drawers of a coffee table. Find a system that works for you.

10. Grow Your Houseplants

It can be a jungle in the family room if you have a green thumb. Organize your plants with a cute plant stand or several decorative pots. The type of houseplants you have will determine where you’ll place them in the room, so keep that in mind when looking for a stand. Stands typically come in corner, pedestal and tiered configurations and some even have drawers so you can keep your fertilizer and watering can nearby.

11. Curb Your Collectible Enthusiasm

Collections, if you’re not careful, can take over valuable storage space in a family room and can be even harder to organize. Large collections display best when bits and pieces are shown at a time (think shadow boxes) and rotated to keep the decor fresh. Cut your displayed collection in half by putting half of the pieces into an appropriately sized container and storing it in a hall closet. For added value, personal or otherwise, keep an inventory of each piece (date acquired, date of piece, description/significance) in the storage bin.

– Julie Morgenstern (www.juliemorge.com)

Check out this extremely helpful, interactive, online  First-Time Homebuyer’s Guide (from frontdoor.com)… its always a good to idea to be pro-active in educating yourself!

Buying a home is a complex experience, especially if it’s your first time. FrontDoor breaks the process down into four easy-to-understand stages and offers helpful tips and advice for each one.  First-Time Homebuyer’s Guide

• Evaluate your life & finances
• Shop for a loan
• Find a house
• Close the deal

First-Time Homebuyer’s Guide

“Winterizing a House”

Do you find yourself punching holes in the walls when the heating bill comes in? This winter, do something to reduce your heating costs and make your house more energy efficient!

Furnace and Water Heater
Change your furnace filter once a month for a more energy efficient home. Have a professional come inspect your furnace. If your furnace is fairly old, you may want to consider replacing it for a more energy-efficient model.

Insulate your water heater with an energy-saving foam or fiberglass blanket. Wrap the blanket around and then fasten it with some water-proof duct tape. Keep your water heater set at 115 degrees Fahrenheit.

Winterizing Windows
Check for any air leaks in your windows, such as through panes of glass or around the sides. Caulking and weatherstripping your windows is easy for you to accomplish. Apply caulk in dry weather that is above 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7.2 degrees Celsius). This will prevent the caulk from swelling with moisture as well as ensuring that it adheres and sets properly. Weatherstripping is vinyl, metal, rubber, felt or foam that is applied between the window sash and the frame to seal the area from air leaks. Simply cut it to fit between the sash and frame and drill pilot holes; next, use a screwdriver to screw the weatherstripping in to place.

Doors
Take a look at your door; can you see light coming through the cracks or can you feel wind gushing in? Weatherstripping is your answer. It’s also relatively easy to winterize your doors.

The idea is to install weatherstripping along the sides and top of the door and a door sweep along the bottom of the door on the inside. If your door threshold (or saddle) is rotten, you’ll want to get a professional to replace it first.

Measure and cut the door sweep to fit along the bottom, drill pilot holes and then screw the sweep to the door.

Then open the door to measure for the weather stripping. Cut the weather stripping with a hacksaw. Drill the pilot holes and then use a screwdriver to attach the stripping. Install weather stripping on the sides and top of the doorframe.

Roof
An efficient roof is the best weatherproofing you can get—it will greatly reduce your heat costs. First, you need to check the roof from the outside with binoculars. Use a pair of binoculars and stand far away enough from your house to get a good view of the roof. Here’s what you should be checking for:

• gutters should be fastened securely to the roof
• check that the flashings, metal plates patching any interruptions in the roof such as pipes or chimneys, are intact
• make sure roof is not missing any shingles, tiles, slates or nails
• take a look at the caulking to make sure it doesn’t need to be re-touched
• look for any warped or darker areas on the roof

If you’ve noticed any problems with the roof, it’s time to call a roofing professional to take a look and assess what needs to be done.

Walls
Check your electrical outlets for any spaces by taking off the outlet plate. You can buy foam that is fitted to the outlet that is easy to install.

You also need to check the outside walls of the house. Walk around the house with a caulk gun and caulk around pipes and spouts.

Basement
Be sure to caulk any drafts in your basement, such as around your dryer vent.

Taking some of the above tips on winterizing your home will save you lots of money on your heating bill! You’ll also save a lot of money by lowering your thermostat to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Drop it by ten degrees during the night or while you’re away. You can purchase and install an automated thermostat in order to wake up to a warm house.

– http://www.repair-home.com/

A neglected front door…
Problem: A dingy door in a blah color, plus out-of-season holiday lights, made this entry less than welcoming.

…gets fresh paint and new fixtures
Solution: Nixing the string of lights and adding black trim and a fresh coat of white paint spruces things up. Gould also swapped out the exterior sconces for larger ones that match the new color scheme.

This house sat on the market for a few months before Gould staged it.

Listed: $479,000
Sold: $459,000 (96% of list)
Staging costs: $3,000

Note: Staging costs listed are for the entire house, not just the room shown. The figure includes Gould’s consulting fee plus fees for off-site storage and rental or purchase of furniture and accessories.

– From Debra Gould, founder of Staging Diva, via CNNMoney.com

Paints can have a major impact on the overall aesthetics of a space; sometimes more than even flooring and furnishings because of the enormous square footage of coverage.

Paints may also have a major negative impact on the healthfulness of a building, because they can contain chemicals called VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) and other toxic components which evaporate into the air and are harmful for the health of the occupants as well as to the environment. Despite the importance of paints, both for aesthetic and environmental health reasons, paint selection is often an afterthought – the last item on the checklist of a busy contractor or homeowner – and they are the most often substituted item in construction projects.

Understanding the Potential Health Effects of Paints
Paint is applied wet and must undergo a drying process, and sometimes a chemical reaction, in order to form a solid paint film on the wall or other surface. It is during this drying or chemical process that VOCs and other paint components are given off.

VOC refers to a class of chemicals which evaporate readily at room temperature. They are in all oil-based paints as solvents. Many latex paints (which use water as the “solvent” or carrier) also contain VOCs as part of their paint chemistry. When these VOCs off-gas, they may cause a variety of health problems like nausea, dizziness, irritation of the eyes and respiratory tract, and more serious illnesses including heart, lung or kidney damage and even cancer. Certain people are particularly susceptible to these effects, including those with weakened immune systems or chemical sensitivities, asthmatics, young children and the elderly. In the case of these sensitive occupants, be sure products are tested for possible reactions before applying.

How Low Can You Go?
Do not be fooled by what some paint store clerks may tout as “Low-VOC” Paint. These paints may meet the EPA regulations, which call for no more than 250 gm/l (grams per liter) of VOCs in “Low-VOC” latex paints and no more than 380 gm/l for “Low-VOC” oil-based paints. However these limits are based primarily on reducing ozone formation in the outside air and not on health considerations for indoor air. Most manufacturers sell paints in these Low-VOC ranges, and six major manufacturers make No-VOC paints.

VOC level doesn’t tell the whole story, however. Because EPA’s regulations are based on ozone reduction, toxic chemicals that do not form ozone are excluded from the required VOC calculations, as are toxic metals. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) list hazardous ingredients and can be obtained by calling paint manufacturers. Be aware that additions of pigments and additives such as biocides also affect the relative toxicity of the final paint mix.

Making Good Choices
Consider using materials and systems that need minimal finishing or none at all, like ceramic tile or natural plasters. Sometimes simply washing walls and/or using a little touch up paint can make them like new. When it is necessary to paint, favor least toxic and/or Low- or No-VOC products, and water-based paints over oil; this will also eliminate the need for toxic solvents for cleanup.

Always use a quality paint. Choose colors with versatility in mind so that art changes more often than wall color. Remember that a more durable paint is less expensive in the long run. A 10-year paint may cost a little more than a 5-year, but there is only a one-time labor cost, which is the most expensive part of most paint jobs. Proper preparation is also critical for a durable paint application. All surfaces must be clean and dust free, with any visible cracking, peeling, or blistering removed. If there is existing paint, determine what it is and appropriately prepare for the next coat. Be sure to choose primers and top coats that are compatible.

Safe Handling and Disposal Considerations
Always read and follow manufacturer’s instructions for safe handling of paints during application, storage, and disposal. Depending on the paint, removal, or application method, you may need to use respirators, eye protection, masks, and face or body protection. When remodeling, be aware of potential lead-based paint hazards (Please see Lead Poisoning Factsheet), and use the appropriate handling and disposal methods.

Remember that ‘least toxic’ does not mean completely ‘non-toxic’. Apply paint when occupants are not present and always ventilate, even with water-based paints. Minimize the presence of soft materials (like fabrics, pillows, etc.) during and just after painting. If present, they will “adsorb” some of the VOCs from the paints and re-distribute them into the air later.

Finally, be sure to store or dispose of any leftover paint in a responsible manner. Minimize leftovers by ordering only what you need in the first place. Ask the manufacturer if they have a “take back” policy. Tightly seal partial containers and store the minimum necessary in a cool, dry place, ventilated to the outside. Otherwise, unused paints can be donated to a re-sale store or paint recycling program.

Check out www.lowimpactliving.com, as a great resource to learn more!

- Courtesy of “Austin’s Green Building Program”